What can you do?
So what can you do to help slow the visual signs of aging?
Vitamin B3: Niacinamide: Serum
​
Niacinamide is an antioxidant that helps with the skins barrier function by increasing the lipid and proteins in the stratum corneum. Improved skin barrier reduces the loss of water in the skin, known as Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Niacinamide also reduces excess Glycoaminoglycans that are found in photo aged skin and are associated with wrinkling. An improvement of skin colour is also found with the reduction of pigment spots and red blotchiness with the use of niacinamide with concentrations of 2%-5%.
Alpha - Hydroxy Acids: AHA's
​
Derived from sugar cane and soured milk, AHA's reduce corneocyte cohesion by interfering with the ionic bonds between cells, inducing desquamation. This gives an exfoliative effect and stimulates cell growth, producing larger more organise cell layer, improving barrier function and giving the skin a rejuvenated appearance. AHA's can be found in moisterisers, as serums and are also used in stronger concentrations as peels for a deeper exfoliative effect.
Moisterisers:
​
Moisterisers help maintain barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss. They should be used along side the serums to maintain rejuvenation.
​
Hormone Replacement Therapy:
​
Although considered quite controversial to some, HRT will help regulate hormones that have been lost due to the changes in the production mechanism. Please talk to your doctor about the risks and advantages to Hormone Replacement Therapy.
Sun Protection:
​
As we have discussed previously sun damage is the major cause of Photo Aging. We must protect ourselves from sun damage. Some ways we can do this is by wearing Protective Clothing such as a Hat and Long Sleeved Tops or by sitting in solid shaded areas. Other ways to protect yourself is by using Sunscreens. Sunscreens may come in a Physical Sunscreen such as Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide. These two ingreadients can also be found in good quality Mineral Makeup. They protect our skin by scattering, reflecting or blocking the UV Radiation. Sunscreens may also come as a Chemical Sunscreen, these work by absorbing the UVR and changing the energy wavelength to a longer less damaging wavelength. These ingreadients may be listed as Benzophenones or a number of other names such as BEMT and MBBT. Sunscreens can now be found in moisterisers that dont feel as thick as traditional sunscreens. A list of TGA approved sunscreens can be found at
http://www.tga.gov.au/industry/sunscreens-args-09-permitted.htm#s91
​
​
Vitamin A: Retinoids: Serum or Cream
​
Retinoids can be natural or synthetic compounds that have a regulating effect on the skin, by influencing cell differentiation (growth) and poliferation (turnover). Topical Retinoids not only increase cell desquamation but they improve the way the cell functions and how it is arranged in the uppermost layers of the skin. This increases the barrier of the skin reducing water loss, making it look more hydrated and it also gives the skin a smooth feeling. In the deeper layers of the skin Retinoids reduce collagen breakdown by free radicals and increases collagen synthesis giving the dermis a more uniform structure which reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Retinoids reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinaise which is an enzyme that induces the melanocyte to produce melanin in the skin. The action of the desquamation and pigment inhibitor will give the skin clarity reducing the yellow and mottled appearance that can come with photo aged skin. Not all Retinoids are the same! Retinoic Acid is usually the basis of perscription based retinol creams and is the most active of the retinoids. Retinoic Acid based creams can be irritating. Cosmeceutical Retinoids come in the form of Retinol and are less irritating to the skin, they can only be sold over the counter in percentages of less than 1%. A percentage of .5% -1% would be sufficient to get results. Retinyl Palmitate is the least active of the retinoids and is a good starter for someone who may be sensitive, a minimum of 2% of this form is needed to see any changes in the skin.
​
Vitamin C: L-ascorbic Acid
​
Vit C is a vitamin that our body cannot make itself so we have to ingest it from fruits, vegetables etc. Despite being able to aquire high doses now through medications, the absorption through the stomach is limited, and is inadequate for affects on the skin, therefore Topical Vitamin C is used. Vitamin C is unstable and deteriorates when exposed to light and air, and is usually put in dark containers with firm fitting lids. Vitamin C works best as a serum and is effective in proportion to the concentration, but will not work any better over a 20% concentration. Although Vitamin C works on its own, it does work better when combined with Vitamin E. Vitamin C is an antioxidant and protects the skin from Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and Free Radicals that are produced through the natural cellular processes in the body, but also through sun exposure, smoking, pollution etc. ROS and Free Radicals are unstable molecules that steal electrons from nearby molecules making them also unstable, damaging the cells. Antioxidants work by donating an electron to a free radical to stablise it. Vitamin C works to help with hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the action of tyrosinaise, this decreases melanin formation. Vitamin C also has an anti inflammatory action and is beneficial in wound healing and preventing post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.